Preservatives - a necessary evil!?

Similar to food, moulds and bacteria can grow on cosmetic products within a very short time. The causes of this are, among other things, contact with the hands but also transmission through the air. Only preservatives can prevent this. However, only water-based products need to be preserved, cosmetics without water content are usually only mixed with antioxidants (e.g. vitamin E). How much and which preservatives may be used is regulated by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. However, in order to ensure that the creams, shower gels or body lotions just bought can still be used in six months time, preservatives have to be added to the cosmetic product in sufficient amounts. A necessary evil? Because some preservatives are considered to be questionable, if not even dangerous to health. We try to bring a little order into the tangle and introduce you to the most frequently used preservatives.

Alcohol

Alcohol as a preservative is very often found in natural cosmetics. It can be recognized in the INCIs under the terms alcohol denat., propylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol. Alcohol is not a preservative in the actual sense, but in sufficient concentration (approx. 15 - 20%) it ensures sufficient microbial stability of the recipe. And there's the catch: high concentrations of alcohol can dry out the skin and err. In addition, it can promote the damage caused by free radicals and thus destroy the skin's natural protective layer. The further up the alcohol is found in the ingredients, the higher is its concentration.

Essential oils

Some essential oils, such as rosemary, thyme and cloves, are also used as natural preservatives. But their effect is not so effective, so that they are often only used in combination with alcohol to achieve a sufficient antimicrobial effect. An absolute no-go for people with sensitive skin. Both essential oils and alcohol can additionally irritate and irritate the skin and cause severe allergic reactions.

Airless dispenser

Some cosmetic manufacturers use preservatives in very low concentrations. This is made possible by so-called airless dispensers. These prevent germs and moulds from getting into the product from the air. Also a transmission by contact with the hands is impossible. However, if stored improperly or for too long, it can still lead to spoilage of the ingredients and thus render the product unusable. Product residues at the opening of the airless dispenser should also be removed, as otherwise germs and moulds can quickly grow here.

Collodial and ionic silver

Since ancient times silver has been used as an antimicrobial agent for the preservation of food or liquids and in medicine. With the discovery of antibiotics, this knowledge has fallen into oblivion. Only since the increasing antibiotic resistance of certain bacteria has silver been used again for preservation. Silver-coated surgical instruments and catheters as well as silver-containing ointments and dressing materials were developed for medical use. The interaction of liquid with these silver instruments and dressings produces antimicrobially effective silver ions. The antimicrobial effect of silver compounds and metallic silver has been the subject of countless investigations. The majority of them prove in vitro the antimicrobial activity of a very broad spectrum of microorganisms. These also include various MRSA strains and fungi, for example dermatophytes. However, the conservation with silver and the possible side effects have not yet been sufficiently researched. There are fears that ultrafine particles such as nanoparticles, including colloidal silver, could penetrate the skin during topical application.
With the nu:ju© this danger does not exist, since the silver ions are enclosed in the fibers and therefore cannot be released to the skin.

parabens

The group of parabens is one of the most hated ingredients in cosmetics (besides aluminium salts). This is due to a British study from 2004, which establishes a connection between parabens and an increased breast cancer risk. Parabens are said to act like estrogens in the body and could also be responsible for early puberty. However, the same applies to soy products. Since 2004, however, no other study has been able to prove the connection between parabens and an increased risk of breast cancer. Among the most common parabens in cosmetics are methyl and ethyl parabens. The concentration permitted by the EU regulation is 0.4%. This dosage is considered relatively safe. The EU Commission's Consumer Safety Committee (SCCS) has reduced the proportion of methyl and ethyl parabenes in a cosmetic product to 0.19%. This dosage is also considered safe. Isopropyl-, Isobutyl-, Phenyl- and Pentylparabene are used rather rarely and should be forbidden due to lacking data in the future.
In response to consumer pressure, many manufacturers are now replacing parabens with alternative preservatives that are rarely as effective on the one hand and not as well researched as parabens on the other. One example is the chemical alternative MethylIsothiazolinone. Since parabens have fallen into disrepute worldwide, methyl isothiazolinones have been increasingly used for preservation. Since then, researchers have observed a rapid increase in allergic reactions.

formaldehyde

Like parabens, formaldehyde cleavers are suspected of being carcinogenic. In addition, you can trigger allergic reactions. They are mainly used in nail varnishes and nail hardeners. They prevent the nail polish from splintering after a very short time. They are rarely used as preservatives. According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation, the maximum limit is 0.2%, for nail hardeners 5%. In this dosage they are considered harmless. Nevertheless, sensitive people can react with allergies. Formaldehyde cleavers hide behind the terms Quanternium-15, Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Hydroxymethyl Glycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol).

Our conclusion: 

Preservatives are a necessary evil! This is because cosmetic products that have not been sufficiently preserved or have not been preserved at all can be attacked by microorganisms. These can cause diseases and thus affect our health in the daily handling of the products. The perfect, healthy and harmless cosmetic product does not exist. If you really want to be on the safe side, you prefer not to use water-based cosmetics and have to resort to the exclusive use of stable fats and oils (e.g. jojoba oil, coconut oil) in good quality.

Our tip:

Look for the following preservatives in cosmetic products:
Pentylenglycol, Propanediol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Undecyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, 2-phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerol, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Glyeryl Caprylate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Triethylcitrate,

These are classified as relatively safe and partly conform to natural cosmetics.

Picture credits: #321123161 ©kenary820 (www.shutterstock.com)